When Kapka Kassabova was a child, the borderzone between Bulgaria, Turkey and Gr
eece was rumoured to be an easier crossing point into the West than the Berlin W
all so it swarmed with soldiers, spies and fugitives. On holidays close to the b
order on the Black Sea coast, she remembers playing on the beach, only miles fro
m where an electrified fence bristled, its barbs pointing inwards toward the ene
my: the holiday-makers, the potential escapees. Today, this densely forested lan
dscape is no longer heavily militarised, but it is scarred by its past.
